Research on Development Mode of Intangible Cultural Heritage in E ‐ commerce Platform

: At present, e-commerce live broadcasting has become a new way of inheritance of intangible cultural heritage. Nanjing Yunjin as a traditional Chinese intangible silk handicraft, known as "inch Jin inch gold", has a history of more than 1,600 years, and retains the traditional weaving skills of jacquard wood machine. However, with the development of modern science and technology, Yunjin has gradually been flooded by modern industrial waves. Taking Nanjing Yunjin as an example, this paper focuses on the research on the inheritance and development mode of intangible cultural heritage on the e-commerce platform. Through questionnaire survey and online interview, this paper conducts in-depth analysis and research on the current status, problems and measures of Nanjing Yunjin, and proposes three innovative development modes of intangible cultural heritage under new media, in order to provide reference for the dissemination of other intangible cultural heritage.


Introduction
Nanjing Yunjin, as a traditional Chinese intangible cultural heritage silk handicraft, has always retained the traditional weaving skills of jacquard wood machine. However, with the development of modern technology and various platforms, new varieties of silk weaving continue to emerge. In addition, the long learning cycle, the boring and intense work, and the lack of publicity makes Nanjing Yunjin gradually submerged by the sound of modern industry. However, with the advent of the new media technology era, the publicity mode of traditional culture has become richer and more diversified. The development of e-commerce platforms can more effectively promote the dissemination of intangible cultural heritage and attract more people of different ages to pay attention to various traditional culture and art forms. The "2021 Intangible cultural heritage E-commerce Development Report" shows that in the past year, 14 intangible cultural heritage industrial belts have reached an annual turnover of more than 100 million on Taobao Tmall, which shows that the "intangible cultural heritage + e-commerce" model can directly pull the distance between intangible cultural heritage products and consumers, bring greater economic value space, and further stimulate the enthusiasm of intangible cultural heritage.
This paper will take Nanjing Yunjin as an example to discuss the inheritance and development mode of intangible cultural heritage in the e-commerce platform. In this paper, we interviewed some employees of Nanjing Yunjin Museum and Research Institute and invited some intangible cultural heritage enthusiasts and researchers to fill in the questionnaire. Then, according to the inheritance and development of Nanjing Yunjin, we analyzed the current situation and deficiencies of Nanjing Yunjin and the put forward some suggestions.

Overview of Nanjing Yunjin Museum and Research Institute
China Nanjing Yunjin Museum is located in No. 240 Chating East Street, Jianye District, Nanjing City. It is the only professional museum of Yunjin in China and a national third-level museum. It mainly displays the Chinese national brocade art represented by Nanjing Yunjin, and is one of the "forty-eight Sights of New Jinling". China Nanjing Yunjin Museum, formerly the China Brocade Art Exhibition Hall, was founded in 1984. It is the first brocade art museum in China that integrates knowledge, viewing and entertainment. Nanjing Yunjin, with a history of more than 1,500 years of hand-weaving, expresses a special aesthetic realm and cultural and artistic charm, reflecting the unique cultural connotation of the Chinese nation.
In 1957, approved by the Jiangsu Provincial government, the "Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute" was established, which was the first institute of arts and crafts in New China. As the only professional research institution of Yunjin in China, it undertakes the historical responsibility of inheriting and protecting Yunjin. Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute is a professional organization for the research, development and production of Yunjin in China, and is also the main body of Nanjing Yunjin's application to UNESCO for the intangible cultural heritage of humanity.

The Process of Nanjing Yunjin
The production process Nanjing Yunjin is very complex. Each process has a lot of enigma like know-how, there are five main processes, namely pattern design, cross-stitch knot, raw material preparation, making machine and weaving. pattern design When the designer design the pattern, organization, specifications, etc., it is necessary to fill in the sketch with a special design paper according to the sample. 2

cross-stitch knot
This is through the warp broken weft, with silk thread as the warp line, with cotton thread as the weft line, according to the picture book to make a good design map. The warp line corresponds to the longitudinal, the weft line corresponds to the horizontal, picked into a pattern template.

raw materials preparation
The main raw materials are silk, as well as gold thread, silver thread, peacock feather thread. Silk needs to go through dozens of processes such as splicing, dyeing, tempering, oiling, and stretching, and is processed into warp and weft raw materials of certain specifications and colors according to the requirements of different varieties for machine weaving. 4 making machine According to the varieties and specifications of the woven brocade, the warp yarn required for weaving the brocade is installed in place according to the different requirements of the ground organization and the grain organization, so that it meets the needs of weaving. 5 weaving pulling flowers, disk weaving, filling, letting off and winding.

Problems in inheritance and development of Nanjing Yunjin
We distributed questionnaires to some Yunjin intangible heritage enthusiasts and finally collected 55 questionnaires. We also communicated with the director of the brand department of Nanjing Yunjin Museum and Research Institute online. The following characteristics were obtained through the investigation.

The process is complicated and difficult to inherit
The complicated process of making Nanjing yunjin requires many years of learning manual techniques, which is derailed by the modern environment of advocating scientific and technological convenience and noisy impetuous, making it difficult to inherit and continue. It is also difficult to arouse the patience and interest of modern young people in traditional intangible cultural heritage techniques. In response to the question "whether Yunjin traditional technology should be changed to adapt to the current era", 67% of the survey respondents remained neutral, 20% of the survey respondents agreed that Yunjin technology should be changed to cater to the mainstream market, and only 12.73% of the survey respondents disapproved, believing that traditional technology can only maintain its own color by maintaining its original characteristics, as shown in Figure 1 below.

Single propaganda channel and mode
The publicity channels and modes of Nanjing Yunjin are relatively simple, limited to the exhibition of the museum and the call of the research institute. The online publicity on Weibo, public account and official website cannot effectively increase the traffic of new attention. For example, the intangible cultural heritage is only a handicraft shop, and the people who pay the bill are still only Hanfu lovers and other handicraft workers, without the injection of fresh blood. Many people who do not pay attention to this kind of thing and are far away from Nanjing do not even know that Nanjing Yunjin exists.
In the investigation on the understanding of Nanjing Yunjin, less than 10% of the respondents really understand Yunjin, only half of the respondents have heard of Yunjin, and nearly 22% of the respondents have no understanding of Yunjin and have not paid attention to it, as shown in Figure 2 below.

Lack of vitality for continued development in the new era
In the investigation on the reason why intangible cultural heritage such as Yunjin is facing the crisis of disappearance, nearly 73% of the respondents believe that people's indifference to traditional cultural heritage is a major reason, and nearly 51% of the respondents also believe that we have received too much cultural input from developed countries, and it is necessary to vigorously develop the cultural industry.
Culture is created by people, and only when it is talked about, loved and used by people, can it have the "vitality" that can continue and develop. If there is no human factor involved, then Yunjin, including other intangible cultural heritage, will disappear completely.

Cooperate with game IP
In the way of publicity, Nanjing Yunjin draws on crossborder cooperation, takes well-known IP as the incision, and to let some people know firstly and then carry out a wider range of publicity. For example, in September 2021, Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute and "Shine warm" 3D mobile game under Wuhu Paper Network Technology organizethe first cross-border linkage activity. Yunjin clothing was completed by the museum and research institute firstly, and then was handed over to the flash warm production team to start the game "restoration" work. Finally, the two sides together showed the ultimate beauty of this millennium to more people.
In the online activity, Yunjin Huafu launched the game with a free linkage suit, and players can obtain Yunjin Hanfu through the limited time game. The official Weibo simultaneously opened the "cloud blowing the moon, beautiful sky" lottery activity, the prize is limited to the yunjin linkage related. During this period, the documentary "Cun Jin" and the theme song of the event "Song on the Cloud", which were filmed specifically for the event, were also simultaneously launched on major new media platforms. In the offline activities, the first floor exhibition hall of Nanjing Yunjin Museum, Yunjin clothing was exhibited. The physical surroundings of the activity include but are not limited to Yunjin DIY group fan, intangible makeup flower handmade dragonfly brooch, fabric bodhi matching, Tuanlong Ruyi paper carving series, etc. This not only expanded the publicity for Yunjin, but also let more audiences know and come into contact with Yunjin.

Develop online stores around cultural and creative industries
In view of the current situation of single sample production and high price, Nanjing Yunjin started from the style of items, and carried out the reform from collection to daily crafts. For example, in the blanket scarf, brooch, purse, various bags, etc., and even in the postcard decoration, the Yunjin fabric is integrated into these handicrafts and launched in the form of cultural and creative surroundings. At the same time, Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute and Yuanxian Studio cooperate to sell online stores such as Taobao and Tmall at the same time, and the price range of these daily fabric items ranges from hundreds to small thousands, so that most people can afford.
In addition, Nanjing Yunjin has also launched some DIY products, such as sachet, pouch and other small pendants, so that consumers can try to start from raw materials, stitch by stitch, and make pieces of Yunjin fabric into sachet pendants.

Strengthen live broadcast and short video publicity
The emergence and development of new media ecommerce platforms have transformed people's lives into a fast pace. In the current period of short video and live broadcast, Tiktok and Kuaishou have become well-known short video platforms. Many stores have opened accounts to regularly update and live broadcast their own products. Even Taobao has the function of merchants live selling goods. At present, the Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute has opened an official account on Tiktok, sharing with people many of the museum's finished products and the institute's production process of Yunjin, design inspiration and photo videos wearing Yunjin Hanfu. At the same time, the peripheral products cooperated with the Yuanxian store are also sold live on the official account.

Innovate the "intangible cultural heritage +" cross-border IP cooperation model
Cross-border cooperation is actually the innovation of intangible cultural heritage projects. It is necessary not only to protect the essential attributes and cultural genes of intangible cultural heritage projects, but also to keep pace with The Times to create a new era. This is a dialectical unity process of "breaking and combining". China's intangible cultural heritage is closely related to the practical life of the people. With the continuous advancement of China's social modernization process, the original soil on which intangible cultural heritage relies is constantly disappearing, and more and more young people are exposed to more diversified and trendy cultures. The inheritance and protection of traditional intangible cultural heritage present a state of discontinuity among young people. If we want to make the intangible cultural heritage more vitality, we must let it take root in the soil of life. At present, the new expression of cross-border cooperation can make the intangible cultural heritage present to the audience in a form more in line with modern aesthetics, re-establish the connection with modern life, and help attract the attention of contemporary young people and enhance their cultural identity.
For the linkage cooperation between Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute and Shining Warm Warm, from many aspects, it can reflect that the new media can help the inheritance and development of Yunjin and be in line with the times. For example, the first process of the production of Yunjin fabric -pattern design, referring to the shape of the green female coat of the Empress Xiao Duan Xian during the Wanli year, adhering to the concept of "there is a picture must be intentional, intentional will be auspicious", the three main bodies of phoenix, peony, sea water pattern into one, the traditional pattern elements, under the perspective of the new generation, glow with new luster. The craftsmen of Yunjin design and make it with a new vision, combine tradition with The Times, and then show it to people through various new media e-commerce platforms.
For inheritors, development and innovation are the keys to continuity. Let the ancient extreme skills combine with the modern digital trend, find more people who are willing to publicize traditional culture in the future, and show the beauty of Yunjin to the world. Therefore, we should seek suitable IP cooperation, use the influence of IP, start from the audience who are more receptive to Yunjin, and bring Yunjin into their vision and into their lives, rather than only being displayed behind the cold glass exhibition cases in museums.

Open the "intangible cultural heritage +" e-commerce platform display mode
In the context of the rapid development of new media and new formats, it is an inevitable direction to explore the digital dissemination of intangible cultural heritage and the new sales model of handicrafts. The combination of intangible cultural heritage and new media of cross-border e-commerce is an activity to promote commodities to achieve consumption purposes with the help of new media platforms. Cross-border e-commerce new media marketing is the use of cross-border social media platforms to promote cross-border export products through digital means. Under the vigorous promotion of cross-border e-commerce social media platforms, Chinese intangible cultural heritage will go abroad and enter the international market to promote the inheritance and development of traditional Chinese culture.
Through the feasibility of the development of e-commerce platforms, it can be seen that Nanjing Yunjin also uses new carriers of e-commerce platforms such as Taobao and Tmall to achieve the purpose of inheritance and continuation. The biggest reason why Nanjing Yunjin does not have too many audiences and consumer groups is the price. Most people don't want to pay for such unusual clothing. If you want to break this situation, you have to solve the problem of not daily but expensive. The production process of Yunjin is complicated, two craftsmen can only weave 5-6 centimeters a day, so the price of fabric is difficult to lay down. Since costs cannot be cut, then starting from the style of goods is the best measure.
The transformation of Nanjing Yunjin from exhibits and collections to daily fabric makes it become "grounded" in a sense, closer to the life of the public, and easier for people to accept the concept that "Yunjin can also be affordable by the public," so as to slowly expand the consumer group of Yunjin. With the publicity of major e-commerce platforms, let everyone see these cultural and creative products is also a prerequisite.

Develop the "intangible cultural heritage +" new media marketing model
With the continuous intervention of new media in social life, new media forms such as short video and live broadcast are increasingly combined with physical intangible cultural heritage across borders, and the two promote each other and develop synergistically. Relying on the rich forms of expression of new media, through the interaction with the audience, the connotation of intangible cultural heritage is interpreted, making it full of life interest and fashion, and narrowing the psychological distance between the intangible cultural heritage project and the audience. At the same time, the cross-border integration and development of intangible cultural heritage has promoted the creative development and utilization of intangible cultural heritage, and realized the recreation and reproduction of intangible cultural heritage in the continuous development of new media, and improved the situation of non-hereditary successors. Due to the change of cultural environment and the expansion of regional space, young groups will have a strange understanding of the connotation of intangible cultural heritage. In the era of new media, short video, live broadcast and other new media creative communication forms can be used to interpret the connotation and origin of intangible cultural heritage, which can enhance the affinity of intangible cultural heritage.
Nanjing Yunjin official in short video production tends to let the picture perspective instead of language to speak, more to show people the beauty of Yunjin. Catching the user's eye is the first and most important step, and the platform will record the data on the integrity of the user's view of the video, so as to decide whether to push the relevant video in the future.
Not only that, the official short video content of Yunjin is also keeping pace with the times, the trend, using humorous language to narrow the distance between Yunjin and people.
In terms of live broadcasting, Yunjin has one of the biggest problems is the price, the production materials, technology and time spent on Yunjin determines its high cost, and it is impossible to sell all the prices of commodities under pressure and pressure again like regular broadcast rooms, and it is difficult to establish a large number of repeat customers. Nanjing Yunjin and Yuanxian studio through the most simple and common method to improve this problem, that is, the second kill activity, with a limited number of low prices to attract customers to buy. Select the right amount of small arts and crafts, or even the perimeter marked with subtle flaws, and sell them to customers in the form of regular second kill activities, thereby building a loyal audience for the studio.

Conclusion
Based on the logic of "situation -problem -measure", this paper first analyzes the current status of inheritance and development of Nanjing Yunjin, and points out three major problems, such as complicated technology and difficult inheritance, single propaganda channels and modes, and lack of vitality for continuous development in the new era. Secondly, it analyzes the three measures taken by Nanjing Yunjin to solve this problem, such as joint game IP cooperation, development of online stores around culture and innovation, and strengthening live broadcast and short video publicity. Finally, three major "intangible cultural heritage +" innovation models were extracted, namely, innovating the "intangible cultural heritage +" cross-border IP cooperation model, opening up the "intangible cultural heritage +" ecommerce platform display mode, and developing the "intangible cultural heritage +" new media marketing model, hoping to provide a reference for the innovation and inheritance of other intangible cultural heritage.